Brazilian Real Exchange RateBumba-meu-boi
I’m putting the final touches on a presentation on the festas juninas in São Luís (update: the video is already here) and found it appropriate to give some background information before I upload the presentation. The bumba-meu-boi from Maranhão is one of the most wonderful cultural manifestations of all Brazil – you can read more about it on the following Wikipedia article in Portuguese. I’m more concerned here with practical information.
COULD YOU DESCRIBE IN A FEW WORDS WHAT’S THE BUMBA-MEU-BOI?: an artistic display that combines dance, music and theatre. The central character of the performance is the ox - or rather, a figure of an ox carried by a person.
IS IT THE SAME AS THE BOI-BUMBÁ?: no, it’s not. Although both share the same origin, the boi-bumbá es is typical from the states of Amazonas and Pará and differs greatly from the bumba-meu-boi.
WHAT ARE SOTAQUES?: if you want to make the most of festivals in São Luís you need to know that sotaques are different forms of performing the bumba-meu-boi. Each sotaque has its own characteristics, and is associated to different characters, rhythms, musical instruments and music. There is a sotaque de orquestra, sotaque da baixada, sotaque de zabumba, sotaque de matraca, sotaque de pindaré, and so on. On the very same night you can see performances of groups belonging to different sotaques. After two nights partying in São Luís you will be able to recognize right away the different sotaques!
WHERE?: an easy question: in São Luís, capital of the state of Maranhão. Bumba-meu-boi is a truly popular festival, and performances take place at the end of the day, in public spaces such as squares, or at an arraial, a kind of fairground where the different traditional groups perform. All performances are free, which gives an idea of how popular the festival really is.
WHEN?: though many places (including blogs and websites) will tell you that the festivities begin on 13 June, the truth is that hardly anything goes on until June 23, when the ox is baptized. The festival goes on until 30 June. It is worth staying in São Luís until the 30th (São Marçal) as all the different folk groups gather together that day.
I’ve read in quite a few places that there is now bumba-meu-boi in São Luís during July. This is only partially true. Only recently the authorities realized how unfortunate they were, as their main festivities ended up in June, just a few days before the beginning of the July holiday period in Brazil. Many tourists arrived in São Luís in July only to find out that the party had just finished. The idea was born: let’s have an “out-of-season” bumba-meu-boi for those who can’t be in São Luís in June. Performances take place during weekends at the Convento das Mercés in the historical part of the city. But make no mistake, it’s a bumba-meu-boi for tourists – I’m not implying you shouldn’t go and see it should you find yourself in São Luís in July. But if the bumba-meu-boi is the main purpose of your trip, you have to find time in the second half of June. The “out-of-season” bumba-meu-boi is no substitute.
ANY OTHER ADVICE?: as there are performances every night running simultaneously at different venues, you need to get hold of a programme of events ASAP. In the programme you will find listings with information on who is appearing where and when. There are usually six performances per venue per night. There are a handful of important venues in São Luís and you can visit a couple of them on the same night. Last year the City Council of São Luís and the government of the state of Maranhão were in opposing political hands, so there were two different programmes of events…
The festas juninas in São Luís are not restricted to the bumba-meu-boi. There are also folk performances in the afternoons in museus, cultural centres and public squares, featuring quadrilhas, tambor de crioula and other forms of folklore. Don’t miss them!
WHERE CAN I SEE MORE PHOTOS OF THE BUMBA-MEU-BOI?: That’s easy, check out my Flickr album of the bumba-meu-boi.
Don’t forget I’ve already published an entry on São Luís here.
Hello,
Just wondering if it’s possible to hire scooters and honda cbr style motorbikes in lagoa de conceciao and if so do you know how much they cost?
Jay, sorry I missed your latest query. Check out Vivo, Claro and Oi.
r harper, you can hire scooters indeed. I have no direct references of them but check out Locomotos. They are based at the Lagoa and the link I have given you leads to their English website. They should be able to sent you up to date costs. All the best.
What about 600cc bikes is that possible? I seen a video where there was loads of different bikes lined up on the street do they belong to people or for hire?
Thanks
RH
Hi
Loved your blog .. lots of useful information. I also have one about Rio de Janeiro. When you have a chance take a look – whereisriodejaneiro.com. I live in Rio and I love this city. Anything other info you need regarding Rio me let me know.
Great Job !!!
I’m afraid I won’t be able to help you there. My advice would be to contact any of the rental companies.
Monica, thanks for passing by. I’ve unsuccesfully tried to view your blog – using both Firefox and Explorer. I can view the header and the sidebar, but the content appears blank.
Hi all,
I have the opporunity to go to Florianopolis and Camboriu for cheap transportation and hotel. I’m going for 6 days, and I want to know about how much I would spend. We’re going to try to keep it on the cheap, packed lunches and such, but I’m also a splurger. What do you think?
Hi Tony,
Wonder if you could give some handy advice, would be much appreciated.
Me and my gf are staying in florianapolis for 10 days during the carnavale period, but we’re hoping to rent a car and travel around the surrounding area of South-Eastern Brazil for about 5 days. Are there any particular areas or destinations you would reccomend- particularly interested in beaches, nature, cool cities/villages. Bearing in mind that we cant stray too far as we have return flights from Floripa.
Thank you!!!
Aikopora, you don’t mention the dates of your intented travel, which can make a huge difference. But I’d say on a tight budget you’d get away on R$80 a day.
Pavel, the coast of Florianópolis and the continent nearby are really beautiful but during the carnival it will be very crowded with huge traffic jams. I need to tell you this as getting from one place to another is quite simple during the low season, not so much during the holiday periods. In any case, one of the most beautiful beach resorts near Florianópolis is Bombas/Bombinhas (search for it on Google Maps and you will find its location). It is north of Florianópolis on the way to Balneário Camboriú. South of Florianópolis and also within reach is Praia do Rosa (south of Garopaba), another highly recommended beach spot.
Now, if you really wanted to go for something spectacular and really different, you could drive up to Cambará do Sul, your base for visiting the National Park of Aparados da Serra with two awesome canyons. But you would need to spend at least one night there (if not 2) to be able to cover a small portion of the park.
Search here for info: http://aparadosdaserra.net/
And at the bottom of this page for photos: http://www.guiaaparadosdaserra.com.br/16/fotos/
Hope I have given you some interesting ideas. All the best!
hi there
I’m travelling to Enchanted Mountain near Garopaba for a yoga course whic doesn’t start until 3rd Jan, leaving me in the unenviable position of trying to find last min accommodation (budget if poss) either in Florianopolis, Garopaba or Pria da Rosa – or in fact anywhere with availability!
Can you recommend anywhere I can try as so far I’m having no luck at all!
Wow…that national park looks stunning. I think thats definitely worth a visit. Thanks so much Tony, your country is amazing.
Rachel, oh dear, I’m afraid finding accommodation in a top beach destination right at the beginning of the high season is a tall order. You could start by scanning the accommodation listings I have published. As well as the one listed on this blog’s post I’ve got one for Praia do Rosa. Have a look also at the Ibis hotel chain, you never know.
Pavel, that national park is top of my wish list!
Great post, i’m living in Arraial d’Ajuda and the best time to come is in the low season!! New year and carnaval is just overcrowded and more expensive… Best time: march to june!
Hi there,
So I’m trying to book a flight with GOL airlines and they are asking for my CPF and after doing some research I’ve found that its a Cadastro de Pessoas Físicas. But since I’m not Brazilian I dont have a CPF. Does anyone know how to get around this?
Thanks
Lisa
In Broduei is opening a new bar of a friend of mine, it’s called Bar do Andy, it’s located near the middle of Broduei. He’s trying to get some of that old broduei and Arraial d’Ajuda feeling back.
Were all the tourists always go to “the more popular” beaches like Parracho and Pitinga, we locals enjoy more the other side like with beaches like Praia Apaga Fogo, d’Ajuda,dos nativos. Here you will find relaxed beachbars like the bar called Sting with good and different music, far away from the tourist madness!
Rua do Mudugê is also allready changed a lot, fewer bars and more restaurants… seems like Arraial d Ajuda is changing… more condominiums than pousadas or hotels.
It’s just not like it just to be.
Tim
Indeed praia do espelho is beautifull but only with sun and low tide! All the beaches in Arraial d’Ajuda,Trancoso and Caraiva are best to visit with low tide and on a sunny day.
Personnaly i like Arraial d’Ajuda better because there’s more to do and see. Trancoso is beautifull but there’s not a the same amount of options that Arraial d’Ajuda has.
Another beautfull thing in Arraial d’Ajuda is seeing the full moon rise from out the sea!
Eather on the beach or behind the church where you have a beautifull view also during the day!
It’s sad to see that so many beautifull beaches are being polluted by chaotic urban development and environmental crime, this time it’s not the rich and famous who try to build their houses anywhere the want, but still, where is Ibama???
I’ve not seen this yet but need to check it out! Just in case you’re interested, I found a more detailed page with some background resources (photos, information about the artists, tracklistings etc) on the BBC site here:
http://www.bbc.co.uk/musictv/brasilbrasil/
Hope that helps!
Cheers, Suzy
Suzy, that is smashing, thanks a lot. I’ve added the link to the main text. All the best!
Lisa, at Gol’s home page, select “other countries” from the menu at the top right of the page and proceed with your booking from there.
So I switched that and now it doesn’t want to accept my VISA card, it keeps giving me 2 different error messages that are you in Portugeuse. Perhaps I should just try calling them!
Lisa, if calling Gol is an option that would definitely be my choice. Purchasing tickets from Gol is a permanent source of headaches for non-residents. In case you didn’t see it, this is Gol’s section on how to pay. All the best!
A bad day of fishing is better than a good day of work.
Indeed. There are plenty of fishing opportunities in the region if that’s what you’re interested in.
Hi Tony,
I was searching for some pictures and information about São Luís – MA because I’m going to spend a week with my mom there, and lucky I’ve found your pictures on flickr and this useful blog. Congratulations for your work.
Because I live in the northeast area, in Paraíba state, I searched for some info here from where I live in your blog but I couldn’t find any.
I hope you have a chance to search and know Paraíba state one day and register the beauty we have here.
Good job.
Sandra, thanks for your kind comments. I haven’t visited Paraíba yet, we have a post on links: João Pessoa but that’s it. I assume you’ve already seen our posts on Lençóis Maranhenses and São Luís. Have a great trip in Maranhão!
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