Brazilian Real Exchange RateOne week in Recife
This is a guest post by our friend Ernesto. He first came to Pernambuco in March of 2007 as a tourist. In January of 2008 he returned and since then has been living in Olinda. He keeps two blogs: a personal one and another that focuses solely on Olinda. His email is nyenye03 at hotmail dot com. Thanks for your valuable contribution, Ernesto.
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Most people who land in Recife seek two things: Carnaval and Porto de Galinhas. Carnaval only takes place for a few days each year and Porto de Galinhas, although considered by many one of the best beaches in Brazil, does not belong (geographically nor politically) of Recife.
Which yields the question: what does the Greater Recife area offer for tourists?
Recife and neighboring towns are not exactly organized, clean or safe. Greater Recife has one of the highest crime rates in the country. Recife itself is called the “Brazilian Venice” because of its rivers and channels, but the truth is that most are polluted and obstructed. The beaches have enormous signs that warn against the threat of sharks. Besides, it’s fairly obvious that urban beaches are, in general, not attractive, whether they are in Recife or in any other state capital in Brazil.
The negative reputation would indicate that tourists need to avoid Recife at all costs.
But behind all that, there are some attractions that are worth mentioning. With flights from Brazilian, European and North American cities, Recife has the chance to become a tourist magnet year round, even though Carnaval will continue to be “high season.”
If you find yourself in Recife, I have four recommendations for you:
- The southern coast. Ok, so this is not technically a part of Recife. Porto de Galinhas is the most well known of the beaches south of Recife, but there are other (less busy) beaches where you could stop. Maracaipe has hosts surfing contests every year and lies immediately south of Porto de Galinhas. It has a less developed infrastructure, but enough to receive tourists properly. On its southern end lies the Pontal, though you should avoid the seahorse tour.
Farther south there are more beaches, best explored via dune buggy. The most well known is, without a doubt, Praia dos Carneiros. There are reefs and natural pools, but what most impresses me is the estuary formed by the river and the sea, the dune banks and the neighboring beach of Guadalupe. The restaurants are not cheap, and Tamandaré (just south) might offer some cheaper lodging and food.
Porto de Galinhas is known for its natural pools, though some tourists are put off by the overdevelopment of what once was a small fisherman’s village. You can visit the reefs swimming or walking; there absolutely no need for a jangada. For young and/or independent travelers, there are some budget accommodations and food in town, though north of the village center there are resorts and more expensive hotels.
Three days are enough to explore Porto de Galinhas, Praia dos Carneiros and Maracaipe, although I don’t recommend visiting these during a weekend.
The bus that connects Recife to Porto de Galinhas stops at the Recife airport. From the TIP (Recife’s main bus station), you can take the Metro to the center of Recife, where the bus leaves for Porto de Galinhas.
- Itamaracá. This island, north of Recife, has three main attractions: Corõa do Avião, Centro Peixe Boi and Forte Orange. Corõa do Avião is a small island, a sand bank, famous for its near tropical waters. To reach it you’ll have to hire a boat from the Forte Orange beach. Since you are there already, visit the old Dutch fort. Nearby you’ll find the Centro Peixe Boi, where Brazilian scientists research and care after the sea cow.
Besides the tours offered by agencies or taxi drivers, you can reach Itamaracá by bus, first taking a bus to the Igarassú terminal, and from there a bus to Forte Orange. Leave early.
- Recife. The city is really just that: a city. It has museums, historic buildings, theater and everything else a big city can offer. A traveler can take in a few, essential sights in one day. Start at the Mercado São José, the largest public market in the city, where you’ll find a bit of everything. Also in Recife’s center you’ll find the Casa da Cultura, a former prison that now hosts artisans and vendors. If you’re not into shopping, perhaps the Forte das Cinco Pontas will interest you, a former Dutch and Portuguese fort that allows you to learn about the city’s history.
Much, much farther from the center you’ll find a family that deserves two visits. The Instituto Brennand (open 1pm to 5pm) and the Oficina Brennand (open 8am to 5pm) are different in content but similar in magnificence. The first is located in the neighborhood called Varzea, and it hosts a huge, private collection of armor, paintings, sculptures and weapons. His cousin, Francisco Brennand, owns his own collection of sculpture and paintings, all made by himself, and housed in a former tile factory. They are both on the outskirts of Recife, near the rural university and the zoo, at the end of Caxangá Avenue. Take any bus that goes along Caxangá, get off at the last stop on this avenue, and hop on a taxi for the rest of the ride.
Finally, if you are in Recife on a Sunday, check out Recife Antigo, where there is an art fair with live music, maracatú and forró. There are plenty of bars and restaurants in the area as well.
- Olinda. The hills, the churches, the restaurants, museums and ateliers in Olinda are all packed into a small historic center, where walking is the recommended method of transportation. After a day walking around Olinda, you can carry on with a variety of cultural activities. The Bodega de Veio is a small bar on Rua do Ampara which is a famous meeting place on Tuesdays and weekends. On Fridays catch the serenade, which strolls the streets singing songs your grandparents would sing (if they were Brazilian). On Saturdays visit the Alto da Sé for Afro Brazilian music at the Preto Velho. Finally, every first Saturday of the month there is a famous street party at the Largo de Guadalupe, where you can learn how to dance samba de coco.
If you still have time and energy (and can arrange transportation), visit the Casa da Rabeca do Brasil, in the neighborhood of Cidade Tabajara, on the outskirts of Olinda. Every Saturday there is a traditional forró party. Also on Saturdays, Lia de Itamaracá hosts a ciranda (circle dance) party on the Jaguaribe beach in Itamaracá.
For someone planning a trip to various Brazilian cities, a week in Recife should be enough. If you are planning longer holidays, it’s easy to include Recife in your plans due to the many transportation options leaving Recife.
Of course, there are many more attractions in Greater Recife, most importantly the culture. In Recife and Olinda there are many foreigners who are enamored with the culture. There is a universe to discover: maracatú, samba de coco, cavalo marinho and much more. Don’t hesitate to contact me if your visit is cultural in nature and you want more detailed information.
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Hello,
Just wondering if it’s possible to hire scooters and honda cbr style motorbikes in lagoa de conceciao and if so do you know how much they cost?
Jay, sorry I missed your latest query. Check out Vivo, Claro and Oi.
r harper, you can hire scooters indeed. I have no direct references of them but check out Locomotos. They are based at the Lagoa and the link I have given you leads to their English website. They should be able to sent you up to date costs. All the best.
What about 600cc bikes is that possible? I seen a video where there was loads of different bikes lined up on the street do they belong to people or for hire?
Thanks
RH
Hi
Loved your blog .. lots of useful information. I also have one about Rio de Janeiro. When you have a chance take a look – whereisriodejaneiro.com. I live in Rio and I love this city. Anything other info you need regarding Rio me let me know.
Great Job !!!
I’m afraid I won’t be able to help you there. My advice would be to contact any of the rental companies.
Monica, thanks for passing by. I’ve unsuccesfully tried to view your blog – using both Firefox and Explorer. I can view the header and the sidebar, but the content appears blank.
Hi all,
I have the opporunity to go to Florianopolis and Camboriu for cheap transportation and hotel. I’m going for 6 days, and I want to know about how much I would spend. We’re going to try to keep it on the cheap, packed lunches and such, but I’m also a splurger. What do you think?
Hi Tony,
Wonder if you could give some handy advice, would be much appreciated.
Me and my gf are staying in florianapolis for 10 days during the carnavale period, but we’re hoping to rent a car and travel around the surrounding area of South-Eastern Brazil for about 5 days. Are there any particular areas or destinations you would reccomend- particularly interested in beaches, nature, cool cities/villages. Bearing in mind that we cant stray too far as we have return flights from Floripa.
Thank you!!!
Aikopora, you don’t mention the dates of your intented travel, which can make a huge difference. But I’d say on a tight budget you’d get away on R$80 a day.
Pavel, the coast of Florianópolis and the continent nearby are really beautiful but during the carnival it will be very crowded with huge traffic jams. I need to tell you this as getting from one place to another is quite simple during the low season, not so much during the holiday periods. In any case, one of the most beautiful beach resorts near Florianópolis is Bombas/Bombinhas (search for it on Google Maps and you will find its location). It is north of Florianópolis on the way to Balneário Camboriú. South of Florianópolis and also within reach is Praia do Rosa (south of Garopaba), another highly recommended beach spot.
Now, if you really wanted to go for something spectacular and really different, you could drive up to Cambará do Sul, your base for visiting the National Park of Aparados da Serra with two awesome canyons. But you would need to spend at least one night there (if not 2) to be able to cover a small portion of the park.
Search here for info: http://aparadosdaserra.net/
And at the bottom of this page for photos: http://www.guiaaparadosdaserra.com.br/16/fotos/
Hope I have given you some interesting ideas. All the best!
hi there
I’m travelling to Enchanted Mountain near Garopaba for a yoga course whic doesn’t start until 3rd Jan, leaving me in the unenviable position of trying to find last min accommodation (budget if poss) either in Florianopolis, Garopaba or Pria da Rosa – or in fact anywhere with availability!
Can you recommend anywhere I can try as so far I’m having no luck at all!
Wow…that national park looks stunning. I think thats definitely worth a visit. Thanks so much Tony, your country is amazing.
Rachel, oh dear, I’m afraid finding accommodation in a top beach destination right at the beginning of the high season is a tall order. You could start by scanning the accommodation listings I have published. As well as the one listed on this blog’s post I’ve got one for Praia do Rosa. Have a look also at the Ibis hotel chain, you never know.
Pavel, that national park is top of my wish list!
Great post, i’m living in Arraial d’Ajuda and the best time to come is in the low season!! New year and carnaval is just overcrowded and more expensive… Best time: march to june!
Hi there,
So I’m trying to book a flight with GOL airlines and they are asking for my CPF and after doing some research I’ve found that its a Cadastro de Pessoas Físicas. But since I’m not Brazilian I dont have a CPF. Does anyone know how to get around this?
Thanks
Lisa
In Broduei is opening a new bar of a friend of mine, it’s called Bar do Andy, it’s located near the middle of Broduei. He’s trying to get some of that old broduei and Arraial d’Ajuda feeling back.
Were all the tourists always go to “the more popular” beaches like Parracho and Pitinga, we locals enjoy more the other side like with beaches like Praia Apaga Fogo, d’Ajuda,dos nativos. Here you will find relaxed beachbars like the bar called Sting with good and different music, far away from the tourist madness!
Rua do Mudugê is also allready changed a lot, fewer bars and more restaurants… seems like Arraial d Ajuda is changing… more condominiums than pousadas or hotels.
It’s just not like it just to be.
Tim
Indeed praia do espelho is beautifull but only with sun and low tide! All the beaches in Arraial d’Ajuda,Trancoso and Caraiva are best to visit with low tide and on a sunny day.
Personnaly i like Arraial d’Ajuda better because there’s more to do and see. Trancoso is beautifull but there’s not a the same amount of options that Arraial d’Ajuda has.
Another beautfull thing in Arraial d’Ajuda is seeing the full moon rise from out the sea!
Eather on the beach or behind the church where you have a beautifull view also during the day!
It’s sad to see that so many beautifull beaches are being polluted by chaotic urban development and environmental crime, this time it’s not the rich and famous who try to build their houses anywhere the want, but still, where is Ibama???
I’ve not seen this yet but need to check it out! Just in case you’re interested, I found a more detailed page with some background resources (photos, information about the artists, tracklistings etc) on the BBC site here:
http://www.bbc.co.uk/musictv/brasilbrasil/
Hope that helps!
Cheers, Suzy
Suzy, that is smashing, thanks a lot. I’ve added the link to the main text. All the best!
Lisa, at Gol’s home page, select “other countries” from the menu at the top right of the page and proceed with your booking from there.
So I switched that and now it doesn’t want to accept my VISA card, it keeps giving me 2 different error messages that are you in Portugeuse. Perhaps I should just try calling them!
Lisa, if calling Gol is an option that would definitely be my choice. Purchasing tickets from Gol is a permanent source of headaches for non-residents. In case you didn’t see it, this is Gol’s section on how to pay. All the best!
A bad day of fishing is better than a good day of work.
Indeed. There are plenty of fishing opportunities in the region if that’s what you’re interested in.
Hi Tony,
I was searching for some pictures and information about São Luís – MA because I’m going to spend a week with my mom there, and lucky I’ve found your pictures on flickr and this useful blog. Congratulations for your work.
Because I live in the northeast area, in Paraíba state, I searched for some info here from where I live in your blog but I couldn’t find any.
I hope you have a chance to search and know Paraíba state one day and register the beauty we have here.
Good job.
Sandra, thanks for your kind comments. I haven’t visited Paraíba yet, we have a post on links: João Pessoa but that’s it. I assume you’ve already seen our posts on Lençóis Maranhenses and São Luís. Have a great trip in Maranhão!
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