Reviews: Pousada Tanto Mar, Arraial do Cabo

March 17th, 2008 Tony Posted in Destination: Rio, Reviews: accommodation Comments Off

tanto mar, arraial do cabo

NAME: pousada Tanto Mar

WHERE: Arraial do Cabo, Río de Janeiro

WEBSITE: www.tantomar.com.br

IN ENGLISH: no

PRICES ON THE WEBSITE: yes

LOCATION: at the top of the Pontal do Atalaia, with a spectacular view of the city and the praia dos Anjos. [Google Maps].

THE BUILDING: two houses built on the top of a hill. The main building has a large dining room, kitchen ,reception, a common room and three rooms. The other building hosts the rest of the rooms. There is a swimming pool and a games room with billiards, table football [foosball] and a ping-pong table, as well as a large garden.

THE ROOMS: comfortable, with no outstanding features.

PRICES IN NOVEMBER 2007: We paid R$110 per room per night - prices for the low season.

BREAKFAST: included on the price. Quite good, with the added bonus of taking it from the dining room that overlooks the bay.

FOOD: during the low season the pousada serves no meals; just some frozen pizzas and basic sandwhiches.

RECEPTION: friendly.

OUR OPINION: excellent value for money in Arraial do Cabo. With just two snags. First the pousada is only recommended for those driving a car, you can’t get there walking. You will need the car for absolutely everything, whether you want to have lunch or go to the beach. Second, it is a pousada only recommended for those seeking absolute peace and quiet. No buildings or shops nearby.

tanto mar, arraial do cabo

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Youth hostels in Brazil

November 21st, 2007 Tony Posted in Reviews: accommodation No Comments »

Affordable accommodation in Brazil? Without a doubt, one of the best options are the albergues juveniles (youth hostels), spread throughout the country. The network of hostels affiliated to Hostelling International includes more than 80 places.

With the information found on albergues.com.br I’ve written a list of Brazilian youth hostels affiliated to Hostelling International. Where available, there is a link to the hostel’s webpage. Full details of the hostel can be found at the abovementioned albergues.com.br. Click on Hostels Brasil on the page’s left sidebar.

BRAZILIAN HOSTELS AFFILIATED TO HOSTELLING INTERNATIONAL
(sorted by alphabetical order of location):

Alto Caparaó (Minas Gerais): Pico da Bandeira Hostel
Arraial d’Ajuda (Bahia): Arraial d’Ajuda Hostel
Arraial do Cabo (Rio de Janeiro): Marina dos Anjos Hostel
Balneário Camboriú (Santa Catarina): Rezende Hostel
Barra do Piraí (Rio de Janeiro): Na Toca Hostel
Belém (Pará): Amazônia Hostel
Belo Horizonte (Minas Gerais): Chalé Mineiro Hostel
Belo Horizonte (Minas Gerais): Sossego da Pampulha Hostel
Bento Gonçalves (Rio Grande do Sul): Casa Mia Hostel
Bonito (Mato Grosso do Sul): Bonito Hostel
Brasilia (DF): Brasilia Hostel
Brotas (São Paulo): Natural Hostel
Búzios (Rio de Janeiro): Búzios Central Hostel
Búzios (Rio de Janeiro): Búzios Hostel
Cabo Frio (Rio de Janeiro): Peró Hostel
Camburi (São Paulo): Camburi Hostel
Campo Grande (Mato Grosso do Sul): Campo Grande Hostel
Campos do Jordão (São Paulo): Campos do Jordão Hostel
Canela (Rio Grande do Sul): Viajante Hostel
Corumbá (Mato Grosso do Sul): Corumbá Hostel Internacional
Cuiabá (Mato Grosso): Portal do Pantanal Hostel
Curitiba (Paraná): Curitiba Eco Hostel
Curitiba (Paraná): Roma Hostel
Delfinópolis (Minas Gerais): Rio Grande Hostel
Florianópolis (Santa Catarina): Canasvieiras Hostel
Florianópolis (Santa Catarina): Ilha de Santa Catarina
Fortaleza (Ceará): Atalaia Hostel
Foz do Iguaçu (Paraná): Paudimar Hostel
Foz do Iguaçu (Paraná): Paudimar Falls Hostel
Garopaba (Santa Catarina): Praia da Ferrugem Hostel
Gramado (Rio Grande do Sul): Gramado Hostel
Ilha do Mel (Paraná): Zorro Hostel
Ilha Grande (Rio de Janeiro): Holandês Hostel
Ilha Grande (Rio de Janeiro): Resta 1 Hostel
Ilhéus (Bahia): Fazenda Tororomba Hostel
Iporanga (São Paulo): Capitão Caverna Hostel
Itacaré (Bahia): Itacaré Hostel
Jacumã (Paraiba): Hostel do Inglês
Jericoacoara (Ceará): Jericoacoara Hostel
João Pessoa (Paraiba): Mainara Hostel
Laguna (Santa Catarina): Laguna Hostel
Lençóis (Bahia): Chapada Hostel
Maceió (Alagoas): Alagamar Hostel (Maceió, Alagoas)
Marataízes (Espírito Santo): Arte Final Hostel
Maresias (São Paulo): Maresias Hostel
Morro de São Paulo (Bahia): Hostel Morro de São Paulo
Natal (Rio Grande do Norte): Verdes Mares Hostel
Natal (Rio Grande do Norte): Lua Cheia Hostel
Nova Friburgo (Rio de Janeiro): Alê Friburgo Hostel
Nova Petrópolis (Rio Grande do Sul): Hospedaria Bom Pastor Hostel
Olinda (Pernambuco): Olinda Hostel
Ouro Preto (Minas Gerais): Brumas Hostel
Paranaguá (Paraná): Continente Hostel
Paraty (Rio de Janeiro): Casa do Rio Hostel
Peruíbe (São Paulo): Peruíbe Juréia Hostel
Petrópolis (Rio de Janeiro): Quitandinha Hostel
Porto Alegre (Rio Grande do Sul): Hostel Elevado
Porto Alegre (Rio Grande do Sul): Hostel Minuano
Porto Belo (Santa Catarina): Porto Belo Hostel
Porto de Galinhas (Pernambuco): A Casa Branca Hostel
Porto Seguro (Bahia): Maracaia Hostel
Porto Seguro (Bahia): Porto Seguro Hostel
Praia do Forte (Bahia): Praia do Forte Hostel
Praia Grande (Santa Catarina): Nativo dos Canyons
Recife (Pernambuco): Boa Viagem Hostel
Río das Ostras (Río de Janeiro): Entrada do Coqueiro Hostel
Rio de Janeiro (Rio de Janeiro): Adventure Hostel
Rio de Janeiro (Rio de Janeiro): Rio Hostel
Rio de Janeiro (Rio de Janeiro): Rio Rockers Hostel
Rio de Janeiro (Rio de Janeiro): Rio Tijuca Hostel
Salvador (Bahia): Barra Hostel
Salvador (Bahia): Laranjeiras Hostel
Salvador (Bahia): Porto Hostel
Santana do Livramento (Rio Grande do Sul): Palace Hostel
São Lourenço (Minas Gerais): Recanto dos Carvalhos Hostel
São Luís (Maranhão): Solar das Pedras Hostel
São Miguel das Missões (Rio Grande do Sul): Missões Hostel
São Paulo (São Paulo): São Paulo Hostel
São Paulo (São Paulo): Praça da Árvore Hostel
São Paulo (São Paulo): Magdalena Tagliaferro Hostel
Saquarema (Rio de Janeiro): Sobre O Mar
Teresópolis (Rio de Janeiro): Recanto do Lord Hostel
Ubatuba (São Paulo): Cora Coralina Hostel
Vitoria (Espírito Santo): Príncipe Hostel

Other interesting links:
- Brazilian Federation of Youth Hostels
- Hostelling International booking system
- How to become a member of Hostelling International

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Reviews: Pousada do Paturi, Caburé

September 27th, 2007 Tony Posted in Destination: Maranhão, Reviews: accommodation No Comments »

paturi, cabure

NAME: pousada do Paturi

WHERE: Caburé, Maranhão

WEBSITE: www.pousadadopaturi.com.br

IN ENGLISH: no

PRICES ON THE WEBSITE: yes

LOCATION: between the river Preguiças and the Atlantic ocean [Google Maps].

THE BUILDING: two rows of chalets around a central patio and the dining room. The pousada is surrounded by sand in all directions, and during the windy season the staff of the pousada spends the day cleaning the sand from the patio.

THE ROOMS: bare and simple, with an electric fan and a bathroom (no hot water).

PRICES IN JUNE 2006: We paid R$75 the room, it was low season.

BREAKFAST: included in the price. Acceptable, given the extreme conditions and isolation of Caburé.

FOOD: the pousada has a restaurant where abundant food is prepared. Considering the limitations imposed by the lack of fresh vegetables, the restaurant provides an excellent chance to feast on freshly caught fish.

RECEPTION: very friendly. After a few days, we were treated as if we were part of the family.

OUR OPINION: those looking for luxury and comfort should not get anywhere near Caburé. For those after a remote place, far away from the world, where there are no computers, mobile phones or cars (only the pousadas’s 4-wheel drive), Caburé is an unbeatable place. The rooms are very simple and provide just the basics for a quiet rest. The luxury of Caburé is its location and landscapes. Nature at its purest. Paturi, the owner of the pousada, is a remarkable character, whose reputation is known throught the state of Maranhão.

paturi, cabure

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Rates on the websites, please

August 28th, 2007 Tony Posted in Reviews: accommodation No Comments »

It’s happened again. I’m looking for accommodation for several short breaks and I’m finding again and again websites belonging to hotels and pousadas where rates are nowhere to be found.

I suppose there must be powerful reasons for a hotel not to publish their rates on the internet. But from the customer’s point of view, this non-disclosure policy is a disaster. In a globalized and competitive world where many hotels do publish their rates online, those who don’t are at a disvantage. A single click separates one pousada website from another.

Gone are the times when the travel agent was the middleman between the traveller and the industry. More and more travellers are planning their trips using the information found on the internet. And cost, I’m sure you will all agree, is one of the most valuable pieces of information for anyone about to embark on a trip.

There is a further unforgiveable sin. The vast majority of those who do not publish their rates online, have an email address where the customer can write to obtain information about rates. A significant part of those who provide an email address do not bother to reply to emails coming from potential customers. This is a suicidal attitude. Not only they are losing a client, they are fueling a source of negative feedback.

The list of pousada websites that do not publish their rates is gigantic, and I’m not going to waste my time here naming names. I’d rather illustrate my point with the example of one of my favourite pousadas in the whole of Brazil, the Vila Kalango in Jericoacoara. Their owners understood that it is possibly to present the rates online, no matter how complex they might be.

And you? Does it bother you when you can’t find the room rates for a pousada? Or do you just not care at all?

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Reviews: Pousada Capim Santo, Trancoso

August 27th, 2007 Tony Posted in Destination: Bahia, Reviews: accommodation No Comments »

capim santo

NAME: pousada Capim Santo

WHERE: Trancoso, Bahia

WEBSITE: www.capimsanto.com.br

IN ENGLISH: no

PRICES ON THE WEBSITE: yes

LOCATION: unbeatable location, in a quiet cul-de-sac a few meters from the Quadrado, the historic square of Trancoso.

THE BUILDING: a number of houses and the pool are scattered in the middle of a lush garden.

THE ROOMS: the suite master where we stayed - the best room in the pousada - is a large room, really nice, very pleasant and quiet, all painted in white, with a very comfortable bed and an ample bathroom. The room has TV, DVD, air conditioning, a fan, a safe and a minibar. And a mosquito net with no holes in it! A real treat.

PRICES IN MAY 2007: During the high season the suite master costs R$300 per room and night. In the low season, R$250. As we got there in the very lowest season, a couple of days before the pousada closed its doors for its annual break, we ended up paying R$190 for the room. Add a 10% taxa de serviço to all the rooms.

BREAKFAST: included in the price. Great variety of savoury and sweet food. Some of the desserts weren’t as fresh as you would expect - no doubt a consequence of the low movement of clients during the low season.

FOOD: the pousada has a well-known restaurant (with a branch in São Paulo). We didn’t have a meal there.

RECEPTION: correct and a touch unfriendly.

OUR OPINON: there are cheaper alternatives in Trancoso, but we decided to make the most of the low season and give ourselves a treat. The room where we stayed is truly charming. But the pousada offers little beyond the lovely rooms. On the same cul-de-sac as the pousada there is another one that looked quite interesting.

capim santo

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Reviews: Pousada Erva Doce, Arraial d’Ajuda

August 22nd, 2007 Tony Posted in Reviews: accommodation No Comments »

arraial, pousada erva doce

NAME: pousada Erva Doce

WHERE: Arraial d’Ajuda, Bahia

WEBSITE: www.ervadoce.com.br

IN ENGLISH: yes

PRICES ON THE WEBSITE: yes

LOCATION: right on the Estrada do Mucugê, the most charming thoroughfare of Arraial; the Estrada do Mucugê is where it’s at. The main entrance to the pousada is surrounded by a coffee shop and a few restaurants and shops. The location is unbeatable for those travelling to Arraial during the low season, but can turn into a nightmare during the high season, as the music from the street can be heard on most of the rooms.

THE BUILDING: the rooms are distributed in several two-storey houses around a smallish pool, surrounded by lush vegetation everywhere.

THE ROOMS: largish and quite different from each other. The first room where we stayed had no space for our luggage. Simple decoration. With a small TV set and a minibar.

PRICES IN MAY 2007: $130 each room per night.

BREAKFAST: included in the price. A bit on the dissapointing side, specially taking into account the room rates. Its saving grace are the crêpes prepared while you wait. Breakfast is eaten at a pleasant dining room by the pool.

FOOD: the pousada doesn’t serve meals. However, complimentary coffee and cakes are served every afternoon.

RECEPTION: friendly and helpful. They tried to sort out the numerous problems we had with the rooms.

OUR OPINON: the pousada is a textbook example of why reviewers should sleep at least the one night in the places they are reviewing. All the guides describe Erva Doce as one of the best pousadas in Arraial, at least when it comes to value for money. And to be fair, if you visit the common areas of the pousada you will be positively impressed. The problems are located in the rooms. As I mentioned above, the first room we were offered didn’t even have a shelf to leave our luggage, and the space for our clothes was minute - do bear in mind we were going to stay there for a week. Paint on the walls was coming down. The bathroom had a broken glass allowing anyone to see from the outside. The mosquito net had more holes than a Swiss cheese (and I’m sure you will agree that a mosquito net with holes is pretty useless). After a sleepless night, our matress had taken the shape of a valley. We asked for a change of room - got it right away. The second room was better, there was a sofa and plenty of space for our luggage and clothes. What a shame it was infested by a giant flying ant - there was an ant nest right by the window. When I opened the mosquito net there were about 50 ants on the bed. A new change of room. The third room in two days. Everything was normal on this room. However, the lack of a shower curtain on the bathrooms meant that every shower turned the largish bathroom onto a swimming pool. Never mind the fact that hot water would only come out of the tap after 10 minutes. 10 minutes wasting water. We mentioned the fact to the owner of the pousada, who seemed unconcerned.

All said, our opinion of the pousada is that, although it has some positive points, and the staff there were really friendly, we would never stay at the Erva Doce again.

arraial, pousada erva doce

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Accommodation reviews

August 21st, 2007 Tony Posted in Reviews: accommodation No Comments »

Before I continue with a few more accommodation reviews - I will publish a new one tomorrow, I would like to make a couple of comments.

It’s becoming increasingly more and more difficult to accept an opinion from places like Trip Advisor without a healthy dose of scepticism. Interested parties have entered the arena of accommodation reviews, whether to extol the virtues of their businesses or to critize the competition. This participation has introduced an ever-increasing noise to the communication process. Recently, there was a pitched battle at Lonely Planet’s travel forum fought by travel agencies based in the region of the Pantanal. The moderation of the forum did not intervene, causing, in my opinion, serious damage to the credibility of the forum in the short and middle term.

[For those interested on the topic, a team from a university in Texas published in February a very interesting article on travel reviews and their impact on travel planning; you can download the PDF here].

The reviews you read on this blog make reference to places where we have stayed during our trips. I publish the reviews with the only aim of helping other travellers who might be considering the same destination. There is no connection whatsoever between us and the places where we stay. We don’t know the owners, they don’t know us. I never disclose I am the author of a travel blog. We do not enjoy any special priviledges. If we get a discount, it is because that discount is available to anyone willing to stay at that hotel/pousada (usually because of a long stay during low season). What you read is the experience of a traveller like you, who is not connected in any way to the tourism industry. We don’t go to the hotel/pousada with the purpose of writing a review of the place. Those after sanitized reviews can find them elsewhere.

I would also like to emphasize we have stayed for at least one night (usually more than that) on each of the businesses we review. If you don’t spend the night at the hotel/pousada you can’t tell whether the music coming from the street is too loud, whether the mosquitoes turn the night into hell, whether it takes ages for the hot water to come out, whether the air conditioning unit makes a noise that resembles a jet turbine, whether the walls are so thin everything you neighbours do can be heard across the room, how is breakfast like. To us, accommodation is a means, not an end, and for that reason, a quiet and stress-free night is the most important thing we ask from the place where we stay.

You will read plenty of accommodation reviews written by authors who haven’t spent a single night at the places they are rewiewing (this is quite common on the big guides, like Lonely Planet or the Rough Guide, but you will find this behaviour in smaller publications as well). The authors go in, have a look around the place, talk to the owners, and leave the place assessing aspects of the hotel/pousada that, while important, don’t tell the whole story - décor, cleanliness, attention.

We have been victims of this phenomenon on our recent trip. We chose to stay at a pousada that receives raving reviews on several guidebooks we consulted. And yes, the décor of the common areas of the pousada is nice, and we can understand why a chance visitor might get a good impression of the place. But in that pousada we did not find the quiet and peace we were after when we chose it.

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Taxa de serviço

July 12th, 2007 Tony Posted in Alerts, Money, Reviews: accommodation No Comments »

In Brazil, some hotels and pousadas charge a taxa de serviço (generally 10%), others don’t. When finding out prices for accommodation, it is advisable to ask whether that taxa de serviço is included or not in the price.

In places that have nothing to hide, their price list will show clearly whether the tax is charged on top of the price of the room (”Taxa de serviço 10%“), whether it is already included on the price (”10% Taxa de serviço já inclusa“) or whether there is no charge at all (”Não cobramos taxa de serviço“). When that information is not present, do find out what is the final price you will end up paying.

Dishonest hoteliers - and absolute minority, to be fair to them, hide that tax only for it to make an unwelcome appearance on your final bill.

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Reviews: Pousada Manacá, Arraial d’Ajuda

May 11th, 2007 Tony Posted in Destination: Bahia, Reviews: accommodation No Comments »

Pousada Manaca

NAME: Manacá Pousada Parque

WHERE: Arraial d’Ajuda, Bahia

WEBSITE: www.pousadamanaca.com.br

IN ENGLISH: yes

PRICES ON THE WEBSITE: no (consultation by email available)

LOCATION: five minutes from the centre of Arraial, on the road to Trancoso.

THE BUILDING: the different buildings of the pousada are found in the middle of a 6.000 m2 garden with numerous trees (species identified with labels) and flowers. The rooms surround the garden. There is a small swimming pool at the top of a cliff with views to the sea and Porto Seguro.

THE ROOMS: there are two types of rooms: the ones found on single-floor chalets, and the ones found on the two-storey houses. All the rooms have air conditioning, ceiling fan, minibar, tv, bathroom and a hammock.

PRICES IN AUGUST 2006: accommodation was included in the package we bought from São Paulo - the flights worked out at unbeatable prices this way. We paid approximately R$90 per room per night.

BREAKFAST: included in the price. Good buffet with freshly-squeezed juices, hot and cold food, and desserts.

MEALS: sandwiches, snacks and pizzas prepared while you wait.

FRONT DESK: correct.

OTHER FACILITIES: the front desk will get in contact with the local agencies to arrange trips for you. They will also put you in touch with car rental companies - cars are delivered at the pousada.

CONTACT BY E-MAIL: there was none as we bought our package through a travel agent.

OUR OPINION: an interesting option of accommodation in Arraial, a bit far from the centre (10-minute walk). The pousada is really nice and quiet.

GOOGLE MAPS: Arraial d’Ajuda

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Reviews: Porto Preguiças Resort, Barreirinhas

April 20th, 2007 Tony Posted in Destination: Maranhão, Reviews: accommodation No Comments »

Porto Preguicas

NAME: porto Preguiças Resort

WHERE: Barreirinhas, Maranhão

WEBSITE: www.portopreguicas.com.br

IN ENGLISH: no

PRICES ON THE WEBSITE: no

LOCATION: on an isolated field, 1 km away from Barreirinhas. Both the bus coming from São Luís and all the local tourist operators go to the resort.

THE BUILDING: set in the middle of a carnaúba wood, on the right margin of the river Preguiças

THE ROOMS: spacious rooms (58m2) with a hammock at the door. King-size beds and a huge bathroom. Absolute silence at night, only broken by frogs and crickets. All the rooms have tv, telephone, minibar, ceiling fan and air conditioning.

PRICES IN JUNE 2005: R$295 per room per night.

BREAKFAST: included in the price. Spectacular and delicious buffet. Very pleasing dining room next to the swimming pool.

MEALS: excellent food at reasonable prices - quite important as Barreirinhas is a bit too far.

FRONT DESK: good. All our requests were attended to. The recepcionists booked the trips we wanted to make with local operators.

OTHER FACILITIES: free Internet at reception. Tempting swimming pool with sand at the bottom (in an attempt to imitate the lagoons at the nearby Lençóis). Sauna. Kayaks for the guests that want to navigate along the river Preguiças.

CONTACT BY E-MAIL: our requests had always a reply in a reasonable period of time. But they made a real cock-up with our reservation.

OUR JUDGEMENT: though not affordable, if you want a little treat after the hardship of a trip to the Lençóis, this is the place. Not taking into account the incident with our booking, our stay at the resort was absolutely wonderful. Thoroughly recommended.

GOOGLE MAPS: Porto Preguiças Resort

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