The Brazil Travel Blog has been five years on the road and during that time we’ve devoted plenty of attention to the Amazon region. It is a part of Brazil as coveted by foreign tourists as devoid of reliable and independent travel information. This is a summary of what we have published on the region so far:

1. General information

• When to go? To choose the right time to visit the region we published the post when to visit the Amazon region. And to understand how the rainy changes the landscape of the region we published “cheia” and “seca” on the Amazon region.
• Where to stay? To understand better accommodation in the forest we wrote on Jungle Lodges in the Amazon. And to ease your angst, we reflected on how tourism on the Amazon region is a foreign affair.
• How to travel? riverboats across the Amazon – schedules / timetables is a fundamental entry you should check if you are planning a boat trip on the region. Amazon riverboat trips contains some tips on the issue.
• To avoid disappointment, we wrote on unreasonable expectations: the Amazon is not a zoo.
• Having the chance to see first-hand how rubber is harvested will lead you to a better understanding of its importance for the sustainable development of the Amazon.
• If guidebooks are your thing, you should be aware of the existence of 7 full (and free!) tourist guides on Brazil available online. One is devoted to the Amazon.

2. Information on destinations

We have five information cards for Amazon destinations:

• Algodoal
• Alter do Chão and the river Tapajós
• Belém
• Ilha do Marajó
• Manaus

We have written with quite some detail on two of those destinations:

2.1 Manaus

As well as the information card destination: Manaus, we prepared a map of Manaus, blogged on the wonderful Teatro Amazonas, perhaps the only unmissable sight in the city; went off the beaten track to eat at the peixaria do Jokka Loureiro fish restaurant in Manaus; visited the awesome Meeting of the Waters and the Janauary Ecological Park, near Manaus and became worried by a new threat in the shape of a gigantic bridge.

2.2 Alter do Chão

As well as the information card destination: Alter do Chão and the river Tapajós, on our favourite Amazon destination, we gave plenty of details on the trips around Alter do Chão.

3. Photos

All the photos you will see on this blog post as well as many more can be found at our Flickr albums:

• photo album: Alter do Chão
• photo album: Manaus
• photo album: the Amazon

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Many tourists choose to embark on long boat trips along the Amazon as part of their Amazon experience. They can range from a couple of days to more than a week. For them, Lonely Planet’s tips for Amazon riverboat trips will be quite useful.

Long boat trips along the Amazon are not really our cup of tea. While interesting from a sociological point of view, they don’t allow for a close contact with the jungle. That’s why we recommend navigating shorter distances allowing for exciting encounters both aboard and on land. We have a particular soft spot for Alter do Chão and the river Tapajós, where you can feel what navigating a giant river is like while at the same time you can leave the roustic comfort of your boat and get your boots dirty in the jungle.

At riverboats across the Amazon – schedules / timetables we gave details on how to find out the specifics about boats going up and down the Amazon region.

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RELATED POSTS:
an Amazon adventure: trips around Alter do Chão
“cheia” and “seca” on the Amazon region
tourism on the Amazon region is a foreign affair
riverboats across the Amazon – schedules / timetables
destination: Algodoal
destination: Belém
destination: Ilha do Marajó
destination: Manaus
the Meeting of the Waters and the Janauary Ecological Park, near Manaus

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Quite often one senses a feeling of frustration in the tales of those travellers who are returning from the Amazon – the ellusive wildlife of the region being the reason for that feeling. After all, they probably thought, if the Amazon is one of the regions of the planet with the richest biodiversity it shouldn’t be that difficult to see animals -the more exotic, the better- everywhere. Lonely Planet summarized well that feeling:

Many travellers leave the Amazon underwhelmed, having come expecting a Discovery Channel-like encounter with jaguars, anacondas, and spear-toting tribes. That simply doesn’t happen – surprise, surprise – much less on the schedule or budget of most travellers.

The foundations for that frustration is the assumption that the Amazon is an open-air zoo.

Unfortunately the reality is somehow different. Biodiversity exists, there is absolutely no doubt about it, but it is found spread along the giant extension of the Amazon region. To see wildlife in the Amazon (animals in particular) you need quite a lot of time, generous amounts of patience, the best possible guide and a reasonable budget. And always bear in mind luck plays a role (during our 2009 to the region we saw more wildlife in Manaus city than in the proper forest).

In the Amazon it is much easier to take delight in the awesome variety of plants and trees.

If you arrive in the Amazon with the right expectations you will appreciate much better whatever wildlife encounters you are lucky enough to have. If a zoo-like experience is what you are after then you should head to the equally fantastic Pantanal, where spotting animals is much easier.

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RELATED POSTS:
“cheia” and “seca” on the Amazon region
the Meeting of the Waters and the Janauary Ecological Park, near Manaus
Jungle Lodges in the Amazon
tourism on the Amazon region is a foreign affair
the Amazon: a new threat in the shape of a gigantic bridge
destination: Alter do Chão and the river Tapajós
destination: Manaus
destination: Belém

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Alter do Chão is a small town in the state of Pará, council of Santarém. It is located at the entrance of a lake formed on the right bank of the Tapajós river – one of the biggest tributaries of the Amazon and known for its dark-blue waters. When the level of the Amazon river is low, from July to January, a beach of fine and clear sands appears at the entrance of the lake, the praia do Amor. Alter do Chão is known as the Caribbean Amazon for its combination of clear waters and sand.

But beyond its famous beaches, what makes Alter do Chão a remarkable destination is the fact that it makes an ideal base for a perfect Amazon experience in the nearby Floresta Nacional do Tapajós. Community-based ecotourism at its best.

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1. HOW TO GET THERE:

Whether you arrive by bus or by boat, the entry point to Alter do Chão is the city of Santarém.

By plane, the nearest airport is Santarém’s. The main Brazilian airlines fly to Santarém from Manaus and Belém (flight time is approximately 1 hour from both cities). From Santarém airport to Alter do Chão, 25 km away, a taxi will set you back approximately R$90.

You can reach Santarém by boat from Manaus or Belém. Travel time is two days. From Belém to Santarém a cabin will cost you R$170. From Manaus to Santarém, R$125.

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2. WHEN TO GO:

Weather-wise, temperatures in Alter do Chão range from the warm to the hot. Rarely does the termometer fall below 20 degrees Celsius and maximum temperatures usually reach the 30′s. It rains heavily from January to July.

The best time to visit Alter do Chão goes from July to September, when the river levels begin to descend and the beaches appear. From January till June there’s heavy rain and the beaches are submerged. From October to December the heat is intense and the river level reaches the year’s low. The magic igapós (flooded forests) dry up.

If you don’t appreciate crowds, we would advice you to avoid Alter do Chão during the Brazilian bank holidays, when the village and the beaches are crowded with tourists coming from Manaus and Belém. The carnival period is particularly critical.

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3. CAREFUL WITH:

• trying to visit Alter do Chão during the Sairé festival during the second week of September; finding acommodation is next to impossible and prices shoot up.
• sting rays. They are found in most beaches, particularly when the river level is low. Accidents are numerous. Before entering the river you need to make sure there isn’t a ray hidden under the sand.
• entering the jungle on your own. It’s a definite no-no.

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4. WE LIKE THE MOST:

• the majestic Tapajós river
• the imposing jungle full of surprises
• the wide range of trips available from Alter do Chão
• the development of true ecoturism in the region
• to spend the day at the Ilha do Amor (literally, “love island”) eating snacks and drinking beer
• to watch the sunset from the new pier and end the night with a piracaia (barbeque fish) at the beach
• the remote and untouched character of Alter do Chão

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5. WE LIKE THE LEAST:

• noise pollution along the river front and the Praça Matriz
• the Ilha do Amor vanishes for several months
• Sunday trippers in Alter do Chão; fortunately, by Monday they are gone
• the unstoppable and destructive advance of men towards the jungle
• the incredible closure and neglect of the Museu do Índio
• the closure of the peixe-boi project, preserving the manatees on the Tapajós river

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6. FAVOURITE PLACES:

The Ilha do Amor, the Ponta de Cururu, the Floresta Encantada, the Canal do Jari, the FLONA, the Tapajós river

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7. PIECE OF ADVICE:

• there are plenty of things to do in Alter do Chão’s surrounding area: a quiet walk along the flooded rainforest and virgin beaches, river-dolphin watching; trekking at the National Parks; getting to know the natives; and even discover two typically American village built by the Ford company during the rubber fever (Fordlandia and Belterra). At an Amazon adventure: trips around Alter do Chão we gave details of the most exciting trips around the Alter do Chão region.
• during the weekend Alter becomes the beach for the inhabitants of Santarem; the place is chock-a-block. During the week it is much quieter
• you can rent a kayak at the Praia do Amor
• there is a supermarket and several shops where you will be able to obtain supplies; however, there are no ATM’s in Alter do Chão
• Alter is an exceptional place if you want to purchase authentic indigenous crafts; some of the shops are real museums
• there’s a great travel agency at the main square, run by Argentinians: Mãe Natureza. They offer good advice and excellent juices and sandwiches
• stalls at the main square sell local food and sweets. A must!

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8. IS IT WORTH VISITING ALTER DO CHÃO JUST FOR ITS BEACHES?

We believe the beaches on the Tapajós river are a fantastic bonus to any visitor to the region. But given how costly it is to reach the region, they could never constitute the only reason for a visit to the area. There are much better beaches all along the Brazilian coastline.

You need to bear in mind the beaches only emerge from July to January. Visit Alter do Chão any other time and you will need a wet suit to see the beaches.

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9. ACCOMMODATION:

There aren’t many options of accommodation in Alter do Chão. Those with a web site are listed at hotels and pousadas in Alter do Chão. We stayed at the pousada Tupaiulândia. It has no website but offers an excellent value for money.

Some of the indigenous communities in the National Forest offer very basic acommodation to its visitors.

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10. HEALTH:

If you are visiting Alter do Chão you are adviced to get your yellow fever shot (more information at 10 facts about yellow fever in Brazil“>10 facts about yellow fever in Brazil). Malaria has not been an issue on the region for some time.

The high acidic level of the Tapajós river guarantees low proliferation of mosquitos. You will find them during your treks in the jungle.

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11. LINKS:

There are no specific pages on Alter do Chão worth mentioning. On Mãe Natureza‘s website, with a version in English, there are detailed descriptions of the activities that can be done in the region. IBAMA’s site devoted to the Floresta Nacional do Tapajós has maps of the region available for download in PDF format.

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12. WEATHER FORECAST:

The weather in Alter do Chão (Santarem) for the next 10 days

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13. CLIMATE:

Average temperatures and rainfall in Alter do Chão (Santarém) at msn.weather.

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13. GOOGLE MAPS:

Alter do Chão in Google Maps.

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14. PHOTOS:

Our Alter do Chão photo album in Flickr.

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15. OTHER BLOG POSTS ON THE AMAZON REGION:
an Amazon adventure: trips around Alter do Chão
“cheia” and “seca” on the Amazon region
tourism on the Amazon region is a foreign affair
destination: Algodoal
destination: Belém
destination: Ilha do Marajó
destination: Manaus
the Meeting of the Waters and the Janauary Ecological Park, near Manaus

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Publishing house Empresa das Artes, with an extense travel-related catalogue, is enabling free online access to the full contents of several of its guides. To read the guides you need to access the tool provided by Book Stand Panrotas.

The available guides are:

Amazonas
Bahia
Goiás
Mato Grosso
Pará
Paraná
Santa Catarina

To open each guide, click on CLIQUE para ler esta publicação. A new window will open where you will be able to read the guide. Unfortunately, the guides are available in Portuguese only, but if you have a basic grasp of the language you will find tons of background information as well as beautiful pictures and maps.

As well as the guides listed here there are a few commercial publications from Panrotas, a trade magazine. Congratulations to the private companies responsible for the initiative.

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RELATED POSTS:
National parks: online brochures

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[This post is part of a series devoted to tourism in five remote Brazilian states - the other entries include Acre, Rondonia, Roraima and Tocantins.]

Amapá is on the northernmost tip of Brazil, halfway between the northern and the southern hemisphere. It has borders with the Brazilian states of Roraima and Amazonas to the west and Pará to the south. To the north, it has international borders with Suriname and French Guiana – a little known fact, this is where Brazil’s land border with the European Union is found.

Enlarge map

Most of Amapá’s territory is covered by the Amazon jungle. The population of Amapá hardly reaches 700,000 inhabitants (an amount very similar to that of Acre) and it is concentrated around its capital. Three important activities are paramount in the state’s economy: the production of Brazil nuts (castanha-do-pará in Portuguese), logging and manganese mining.

The capital of Amapá is Macapá, known for the fact that the line of Equator runs through it. It is the only Brazilian capital that cannot be reached by road (it’s either a plane or a boat to get you there). Airlines Gol and Tam fly from Belém and Manaus to Macapá.

As it is the case for the remaining states we are presenting on this series, one of the main obstacles to the development of a tourist industry are the high transportation costs. A flight from the southern regions of Brazil to Amapá can cost as much as a ticket to the States.

The Brazilian Ministry of Tourism has included a tourist route in the state of Amapá. The Amazônia no Meio do Mundo includes a detailed visit to Macapá, with its Monumento Marco Zero and the São José Fortress. The line of the Equator cuts right through the middle of its football stadium Zerão. Football games there are played in both hemispheres simultaneously.

One of the main tourist attractions of Amapá is the pororoca (more info here at the blog in Pororoca, the mother of all waves), a result of the violent clash between the waters of the Atlantic Ocean and the Araguari river.

The National Park of Cabo de Orange is located in the state of Amapá, near the border with the French Guiana. The park is rich in wildlife, being a sanctuary for migratory birds. The park has no infrastructure whatsoever and it is not opened to tourism. You will need an authorization from IBAMA if you want to venture inside the park.

The Brazilian Ministry of Tourism hasn’t elaborated any videos to popularize the tourist attractions of the state of Amapá (videos were preparaded for most Brazilian states). In the Ministry’s tool for travel professionals, Brasil Network, there is no information on Amapá . It would seem that there is no intention whatsoever of selling Amapá as a tourist destination.

Links:
Governo do Estado do Amapá
Secretaria de Estado de Turismo do Amapá
Ciudad de Macapá

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RELATED POSTS:
undiscovered Brazil: Acre
undiscovered Brazil: Rondonia
undiscovered Brazil: Roraima

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