Our friend and experienced diver Gabriel went to Noronha and sent us a handful of underwater pictures. Thrilling stuff.

Fernando de Noronha ranks at the top of our 10 must-see places in Brazil and also at our top 10 Brazilian beaches. A brilliant destination, both underwater and above it. Our main entry for Noronha is destination: Fernando de Noronha.

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RELATED POSTS:
the dark side of Fernando de Noronha
Noronha: ready to fork out a further R$130?
five days in Noronha for R$900 total – how we did it
pay your tax online… not!

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I came across this video that brought back fond memories of a trip to Bonito and a dive in the Sucuri river nearly 9 years ago.

Bonito is an outstanding ecotourism destination in the state of Mato Grosso do Sul. Destination: Bonito is our information resource for that destination.

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Hidden somewhere at the Brasil Network website – the Ministry of Tourism tool for travel professionals, there is a little gem: the Brazil Diving Guide. It’s a 42-page booklet on PDF format with a wealth of information on diving in Brazil. Diving sites, shipwrecks, wildlife. The whole lot. The copy borders on the reckless at times (comparing Maracajau to the Great Barrier Reef is likely to create very disgruntled customers) but it is nonetheless a helfpul source. It can be downloaded clicking here.

Much as I try, I can’t see why this valuable material is not made openly available to independent travelers. We know the Ministry of Tourism is mostly interested on wealthy foreign tourists but it is quite a mistake to make independent travel and wealth incompatible. Well, never mind. That’s why we have independent travel blogs for.

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RELATED POSTS:
diving
destination: Bonito
destination: Ilha Grande
destination: Fernando de Noronha
Nautical Tourism in Brazil
birdwatching in Brazil

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Ilha Grande is a popular tourist destination on the southern coast of the state of Rio de Janeiro. Ilha Grande is the ideal destination for those seeking a close contact with nature. The reasons are numerous: a mountainous tropical island where no cars are allowed; an island covered by a dense tropical rainforest (mata atlântica) for most of its extension; hiking paths crossing the island from north to south and east to west; idyllic beaches and crystal-clear waters. Ilha Grande is definitely not for those keen on sophistication, shopping and a thriving night lifte.

1. HOW TO GET THERE:
The main access to the island is Angra dos Reis, although Ilha Grande can also be reached from Mangaratiba and Conceição de Jacareí. We’ve already seen at this blog how to get from Rio de Janeiro to Angra dos Reis, how to get from São Paulo to Angra dos Reis and how to go from Paraty to Angra dos Reis.

The island can only be reached by boat (cars must stay in the continent) from the cities mentioned in the paragraph above. The route from Angra dos Reis is usually calmer than the one from Mangaratiba, specially in days where the sea is rough. Anyone going to Bananal or Araçatiba need to get their boats in Angra dos Reis. For those going to the vila do Abraão (main inhabited centre in the island) and nearby area there is a regular ship service (barcas ) that provides the cheapest option to get to the island. It takes 1 hour and a half to reach Abraão. Up-to-date information on the sailing schedule can be checked at the following page: horarios de los barcas a la Vila do Abraão. The page also shows prices and other information of interest regarding the crossing from the continent to the island. As well as the regular boats, there are smaller sailing boats (schooners) taking tourists to the island, as well as fishing boats. The schooners tend to have a regular timetable, but you can’t tell for sure whether there will be one waiting for you. There is also a more expensive alternative, a catamaran that reaches Abraão in 45 minutes. At the time of writing this entry its price was R$20 each way (more information, including timetable, at catamarã Ilha Grande).

Careful, as there are two different jetties in Angra. The official ship to Abraão leaves from the Cais da Lapa. The schooners leave from the Cais de Turismo.

A new tourist jetty was inaugurated in Conceição de Jacareí in January 2008. From there the time it takes to reach Abraão is much shorter. The bus from Costa Verde going from Rio to Angra stops at Conceição. There you can take a schooner (45 minutes, R$15) or a speedboat (15 minutes). Schedules and more info at Conceição de Jacareí. There is a warning on the text, the services mentioned are not regular services, which means you can’t tell for sure when they’ll be running.

2. CAREFUL WITH:

• The final week of the year, January and carnival, when the island is chock-a-block and prices rocket. During that time of the year the overpopulation of the island often translates into power cuts.
• Ilha Grande is synonymous with rain, all year long. You are advised to bring proper footwear. Flip-flops/thongs are not appropriate for hiking. After the rain the paths are quite muddy and you can easily fall and do yourself some serious harm.
• The snakes, although you are unlikely to come across any of them (they fear humans, and not without reason), they do exist, and they are venomous. They are found in the dense forest. Do not get obsessed but at the same time keep your eyes opened when you walk along dense vegetation or places where you can’t see where you put your feet.
• There are no banks or ATMs on the island. Bring from the continent with you the money you are likely to need. Many places accept payment of services with credit cards.

3. WE LIKE THE MOST:
The lush vegetation, the awesome landscapes, the fantastic beaches, the crystal-clear waters.

4. WE LIKE THE LEAST:
The oppressing feeling of being in a paradise under a serious threat. There is rubbish everywhere (including beaches and remote locations). The lack of environmental preservation awareness among the locals.

5. FAVOURITE PLACES:
The Lagoa Verde, the Lopes Mendes beach, the Saco do Céu.

6. PIECE OF ADVICE:

• the main inhabited centre on the island is the village of vila do Abraão, where most of the accommodation, shops and restaurants are. Among the smaller villages you’ll find Provetá and Araçatiba.
• when you arrive in the Vila do Abraão, and depending on where your pousada is located (do remember there are no cars on the island), you’ll be able to hire the services of a porter.
• camping is only allowed in specially designated places. You can find the list here: Camping na Ilha Grande.
• Lopes Mendes, Parnaioca, Dois Rios and Cachadaço are among the most beautiful beaches on the island.
• there are two ways of moving about in the Ilha Grande: by boat or on foot following the different paths around the island.
• at trekking in Ilha Grande we gave an overview of the trekking options in the island. Mountain climbers can go to the top of the Pico Do Papagaio (982 meters) in the company of a local guide. From the top there is a wonderful panoramic view of the island. It takes 7 hours to go and come back, bear in mind the path is really steep, you are departing from sea level.
• the other outstanding leisure activity on the island are the boat trips (mostly schooners). On the following page you will find a description of the main boat trips around Grande. Trips last from 6 to 8 hours and take you to several beaches, stopping on the way in places where you can snorkel. The trips cost between R$25 and R$80, depending on their length. As the island is quite big, no schooner manages to sail around it on the same day. If that’s what you want to do, you’ll have to fork out R$150 for an 8-hour trip around the island on a motorboat.
• Ilha Grande is an excellent destination for divers. The best time of the year is between November and May. Detailed information (in Portuguese) at Mergulho na Ilha Grande and Snorkel na Ilha Grande.

7. ACCOMMODATION:
We have a full listing of Hoteles and Pousadas in Ilha Grande

8. LINKS:
Ilha Grande com.br, Ilha Grande .org.

9. WEATHER FORECAST:
the Weather in Ilha Grande for the next 10 days

10. CLIMATE:
Average rainfall and temperatures in Ilha Grande.

11. PHOTO ALBUM:
photos of Ilha Grande.

12. MAP OF ILHA GRANDE:
At map of Ilha Grande you will find a very detailed map of the island.

[Don’t forget to check out the list of other destinations already covered in this blog, here]

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Although there are scores of diving (and snorkeling) locations along the Brazilian coast, the honest truth is that few would rank highly on a global scale. The exception to this would be the best diving destination in Brazil (or, should I say, the diving destination), the island of Fernando de Noronha.

Top-notch diving in Noronha, with great underwater paleovolcanic landscapes and consistent marine life (it’s a national park). Not that great when it comes to coral reefs. There are three dive operators on the island: Águas Claras, Atlantis Divers and Noronha Divers.

As well as diving, the beauty of Noronha is that snorkelling is just a few metres away from any of the island’s beautiful beaches. Best beaches for snorkeling are Sancho, Porcos, Atalaia and the entrance to the harbour – where a shipwreck is found. Be aware that from November to March, the sea is quite rough. Calm waters from August to October.

Other important diving spots in Brazil are the National Marine Park of Abrolhos (state of Bahia), Bonito (state of Mato Grosso do Sul), for river snorkelling and cave dives, Arraial do Cabo (state of Rio), the southern coast of the Rio state (Ilha Grande, Paraty), and part of the coast of the São Paulo state (Ubatuba, laje de Santos).

At this blog’s Brazil Diving Guide we pointed to a PDF guide where you can find out more about diving spots in Brazil.

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RELATED POSTS:
Brazil Diving Guide
destination: Bonito
destination: Ilha Grande
destination: Fernando de Noronha
Nautical Tourism in Brazil

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Bonito is a very popular ecotourism destination not very well known outisde Brazil. The main reason for its relatively unknown status outside Brazil might be due to its remote location (see the GoogleMaps link below): Bonito is a village in the southernmost part of the Pantanal, 300 km away from the nearest major airport (Campo Grande).

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1. WE LIKE THE MOST:
The crystalline waters of the rivers around Bonito, snorkelling surrounded by fish, the apparent concern for the environment.

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2. WE LIKE THE LEAST:
The big distances that need to be covered through dirt roads to get to the different attractions; the construction of large hotels and a landing strip; the expensive prices of the trips.

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3. HOW TO GET THERE:
There are two options: by bus (from São Paulo, it’s a 15-hour journey) or by plane (to Campo Grande and from there a three-hour drive to Bonito).

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4. CAREFUL WITH:
Anacondas in the Sucuri river (no, I’m just kidding; I mean, there are anacondas but you won’t come across them; sucuri is the Brazilian word for anaconda).

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5. FAVOURITE PLACES:
The Gruta Azul, the Sucurí river, the Rio da Prata, the Buraco das Araras.

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6. PIECE OF ADVICE:

• the different natural attractions have a maximum number of visitors allowed each day – the limit is strictly enforced. Don’t go anywhere without booking first.
• take an underwater camera, even if it is a disposable one. You will get plenty of chances to use it while snorkelling on the Bonito rivers.
• don’t forget to bring plenty of insect repellent with you.
• don’t expect big emotions from the whitewater rafting at the Formoso river, there is just one exciting rapid, the rest is all calm.
• if you buy a package holiday to Bonito, do find out which trips are included; the main trips are very expensive, from R$150 upwards.

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7. HEALTH:
While not compulsory, you are strongly adviced to get your yellow fever shots if you are visiting the area. Yellow fever is present in the area of Bonito.

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8. LINKS:
Bonito Turismo (city council), Bonito Online

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9. ACCOMMODATION:
Check our full listing of hotels and pousadas in Bonito

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10. WEATHER FORECAST:
The weather in Bonito for the next 10 days

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11. GOOGLE MAPS:
Bonito

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12. PHOTOS:
Bonito

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RELATED POSTS:
Bonito – trip report
snorkeling in Bonito, Mato Grosso do Sul

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We are quite certain the archipelago of Fernando de Noronha is Brazil’s closest spot to Paradise. 300 km away from the north east coast of the country, Noronha concentrates places of unrivalled beauty and tranquillity. On top of that, Noronha is a rare place where preserving the environment is the foremost concern for its inhabitants.

The archipelago is formed is formed my the main island, inhabited, and a series of smaller islands. Part of the archipelago forms the Maritime National Park of Fernando de Noronha. UNESCO declared Noronha a World Natural Heritage Site in 2001 (you can find the reasons at the following UNESCO website section: Brazilian Atlantic Islands: Fernando de Noronha and Atol das Rocas Reserves).

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1. WE LIKE THE MOST:

The fantastic beaches; the colour of the sea; snorkelling anywhere, anytime; the dolphins; the marine turtles you will come across during your dives;, the colourful fish; the silence; the stars.

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2. WE LIKE THE LEAST:

In recent years, a place that was meant to be, above all, a destination for nature lovers, has become the object of desire for the Brazilian well-offs (often not that interested in nature). As a result, accommodation prices have rocketed, and the more basic accommodation of times gone by is being increasingly replaced by top hotels with outrageous prices. Fernando de Noronha is out of reach for many people, including most Brazilians. In return, it is being crowded by people who to Noronha looking for luxury and comfort without realizing that being in Noronha is already a privilege.

Everything mentioned on the dark side of Fernando de Noronha.

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3. HOW TO GET THERE:

There is just the one option to get to Noronha, the plane. There are no boats taking passengers to Noronha. The only boats sailing to Noronha are the cargo freights that bring supplies to the island and cruise ships during the high season.

Trip airlines fly to the island from Natal and Recife. Tam uses Trip for the final leg of its flights to Noronha.

From the rest of the country, only Varig (now owned by GOL flies to Noronha.

Airfares are very expensive – bordering on the ridiculous. Flight deals to Noronha are hardly seen.

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4. CAREFUL WITH:

The treacherous ladder going down to Sancho beach. While diving at the sunken ship in the harbour area, be aware of boats entering and leaving the harbour. When the sea is rough, be extremely careful if you go for a swim at the Porcos beach, as the strong waves can land you against the rocks.

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5. FAVOURITE PLACES

Sancho beach, the harbour of Santo Antonio (excellent for snorkelling), the Conceição beach, the baia dos Golfinhos (Dolphin bay).

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6. DIVING AND SNORKELLING

6.1 DIVING:
There are three dive shops in Noronha: Águas Claras, Atlantis Divers and Noronha Divers. The three companies dive at different points every day, to avoid overcrowding.

6.2 SNORKELLING:
If snorkelling is your thing, and you don’t have a mask, a snorkel or flippers, you can rent them in Noronha. Many pousadas rent them, and there is a place at the harbour where you can rent them too. There you can get a life jacket too, if that’s going to make you more comfortable. There are several excellent points for snorkelling:

• the shipwreck at the entrance to the harbour. You will see many fish swimming around the remains of the sunken ship. On your way to the point where the ship sunk you are very likely to come across the turtles that feed around the area.
• Sancho beach. The best points are on the right-hand side of the beach, near the rocks, and in the middle of the beach, some 100 meters into the sea, where there’s a bunch of rocks.
• Porcos bay. Snorkel around the rocks. It can only be done during the months when the sea is completely calm.
• Sueste bay. To the right of the bay there is an area where turtles are constantly feeding. You need to hire the services of a guide to get you there, last we heard the price was R$25 per person.
• Atalaia beach. Natural pools form when the tide is low. Access to the beach is controlled and only a limited number of visitors are allowed per day. On top of that, the time you can remain at the pools is limited too. Get there early to avoid the queues.
• As well as the places pointed out above, any beach with calm waters presents a fantastic excuse for snorkelling. At the Conceição beach we saw a huge shoal of sardines.

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7. PIECE OF ADVICE:

• the very best time to visit Noronha is the period between August and October, when the beaches of Sancho and Porcos look their best. During that time, the sea on the continental side of is like a millpond. Shortly after that, the currents change and in January and February surfing competitions are held on those very same beaches.
• the boat trip to see the dolphins is really worth it. Your chances of coming across dozens of dolphins are high. On top of that, the boat will take you to parts of the island than cannot be reached on photo. It stops at Sancho bay for a swim.
• in Noronha food is more expensive than in the mainland. There is at least a por quilo restaurant (you pay according to the weight of the food you put on your plate) where an affordable meal can be had. There is a small supermarket at the Vila dos Remédios.
• at the end of the day, there are daily (and free) talks on different topics related to Noronha and the environmentat the Projeto Tamar HQ. It is an excellent way of rounding up your day.
• all visitors to Noronha must pay an environmental tax (known in Portuguese as taxa de preservação). At Tabela de Preços you can see the current values. The longer you stay at the island the more expensive the tax will be – it is calculated according to the number of days spent at the island. The tax can be paid on arrival at the island – credit cards are accepted.
• there is a public bus service going from one side of the island to the other at regular intervals. Most beaches are just a short walk away from the bus route. You can also take a taxi (in Noronha they are buggies or jeeps). And if preserving the environment is not your top priority, you could do as many guides recommend and rent a highly-polluting buggy. Not our idea of close contact with nature.
• if there is a place in Brazil where you can feel safe, that is Noronha. Violent crime is unheard of.
• at the harbour, the NGO Projeto Golfinho Rotador, that looks after the dolphins in Noronha, informs on a daily basis of the number of dolphins spotted entering the Golfinhos bay.
• there are three ATMs in the island. At least one of them allows withdrawals of money with international credit cards. Just in case, make sure you arrive in the island with some cash (preferably reais, the Brazilian currency).
• voltage in Noronha is 220V.
• if you are on a short budget, don’t miss our post five days in Noronha for R$900 total – how we did it.

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8. ACCOMMODATION

At our Accommodation in Brazil blog you can check a full listing of hotels and pousadas in Fernando de Noronha.

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9. LINKS:

Fernando de Noronha (government of the state of Pernambuco)

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10. HEALTH:

There are no major health concerns associated with Noronha. Sunblock is a must, as there are hardly any trees on the island. There is a tiny health centre. Serious cases need to be treated at the mainland. No vaccines are needed for Noronha.

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11. WEATHER FORECAST:

The weather in Noronha for the next 10 days

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12. CLIMATE:

Average temperatures and rainfall in Fernando de Noronha at the weather channel.

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13. TIDE CHARTS:

Go to Tábuas de Marés, an official website, and select ILHA DE FERNANDO DE NORONHA from the drop-down menu for a tide chart for Noronha.

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14. GOOGLE MAPS:

We prepared a detailed map of Fernando de Noronha for the blog.

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15. PHOTOS:

Fernando de Noronha

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RELATED POSTS:
the dark side of Fernando de Noronha
Noronha: ready to fork out a further R$130?
five days in Noronha for R$900 total – how we did it
pay your tax online… not!

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