It’s so interesting to see how the inhabitants of the Amazon region manage to add an even greener (and for that matter, yellow, too) touch to their cities and villages while the soccer world cup takes place miles away. The photos were taken in the formidable Amazon destination of Alter do Chão during the celebration of the 2010 World Cup.

If you want to see more photos of Alter do Chão check out our Flickr album.

If you want more information on the destination, have a look at our blog post Alter do Chão and the river Tapajós.

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1. Alter do Chão, our Amazon secret

Alter do Chão is a beautiful and to a large extent unkwon Amazon destination that reached fame not long ago thanks to an article on British newspaper The Guardian británico. It is found near Santarém, in the state of Pará and here at the Brazil Travel Blog we devoted it a destination card back in 2007 (a card we updated recently in Alter do Chão and the river Tapajós and an Amazon adventure: trips around Alter do Chão).

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2. Alter do Chão´s recent claim to fame

On 15 April 2009 The Guardian published an article with the title Top 10 beaches in Brazil. It is an article that, by the look of the comments and conclusions extracted from it by the tourist trade, was read by very few. On the second paragraph of the article there is an explanation on how the beach ranking was elaborated. “we asked 10 experts to choose their favourites”. That’s all there is about the ranking. The newspaper asked 10 travel specialists to mention their favourite beach in Brazil. One beach each. The list is published in no hierarchical order. Ricardo Freire -one the specialists consulted- explained at Nasce um mito: Alter-do-Chão, “a melhor praia do Brasil segundo a imprensa inglesa” that the specialists were asked not to mention beaches chosen by any of the other 8 experts. Had it not been for this rule we could have expected a heavy Fernando de Noronha presence on the list (strangely, The Guardian lists the island of Fernando de Noronha as if it only had one beach).

Alter do Chão is on the list. Conspicuous by its absence on the description of Alter published by the newspaper is any mention to the fact that the beaches of Alter are covered by the river between January and July. Should you arrive in Alter in April you will find no beaches at all -you will agree this is no insignificant detail. We know of several frustrated tourists that chose the wrong time of the year to travel to Alter and get to know its beaches.

On the Guardian list, Alter do Chão appears listed first. We know the beaches were listed in geographical order (from north to south). But the local tourist trade chose to ignore this fact and a myth was born: Alter do Chão as the most beautiful beach in Brazil according to the Guardian newspaper. And once a myth is born it is a mean task to make people understand the mistake.

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3. What are the beaches of Alter do Chão like?

Alter do Chão and the region of the river Tapajós contain the most extense collection of white sandy beaches in the Amazon region. Alter owes its fame to the Ilha do Amor beach (“Love Island”) which rather than an island it is a sand bar right in front of the village, contemplated at its best between July and December. The sand bar is bathed by the Tapajós river to one side and by the Lagoa Verde to the other. In the middle of the sand bar there is an endless series of beach huts with restaurants serving Amazon fish. But the Ilha do Amor is just one of many beaches in the region. During the dry season you can walk from Alter to Santarém through the beach following the river course.

The Ilha do Amor is a pleasant beach of fine sand and no waves. The river waters are dark, warm and transparent. To reach the beach from the village you need to enlist the services of a boatman that will take you there in no time at all.

During the weekend and the holiday season the beach is filled with tourists from the region and the cities of Belém and Manaus. The atmosphere at the beach is no different from that of any other beach in Brazil. High season means an awful lot of tourists, noise, movement, chaos, plastic chairs and tables and food and drink aplenty. Plenty of rubbish too.

During the low season, if you reach the beach during the week you will have it mostly for yourself.

We have mentioned there are many other beaches. You can hire a boatman to take you there. Most of the beaches are virgin, with no infrastructure whatsoever. Other beaches, such as the Ponta de Pedras, have restaurants.

If you don’t want to take a boat, you can reach the popular praia do Cajueiro on foot. From Alter’s main square, follow the riverfront to the left and you’ll get there in five minutes.

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4. So, is it worth a trip to Alter do Chão just to see its beaches?

We feel the beaches of Alter are a plus to anyone visiting the rainforest in the region. Alter is a fantastic base for the perfect Amazon experience. So if you go to Alter after a jungle experience, there is much worse you can do than relaxing one day at its beaches.

If you are only after a beach destination for your holidays, and you like your beaches with plenty of intrastructure, we dare say Alter do Chão might not be your place. For the money you’ll pay to get to roustic Alter you can spend a week at a holiday resort.

However, if roustic is your thing and you are after a different type of beach, you might want to give Alter do Chão a try. And if you have in mind a trip combining a beach holiday with a trip to the jungle, then go ahead, Alter is your place.

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RELATED POSTS:
destination: Alter do Chão and the river Tapajós
an Amazon adventure: trips around Alter do Chão
destination: Algodoal
destination: Belém
destination: Ilha do Marajó
destination: Manaus
the Meeting of the Waters and the Janauary Ecological Park, near Manaus
Jungle Lodges in the Amazon

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Alter do Chão is a small town in the state of Pará, council of Santarém. It is located at the entrance of a lake formed on the right bank of the Tapajós river – one of the biggest tributaries of the Amazon and known for its dark-blue waters. When the level of the Amazon river is low, from July to January, a beach of fine and clear sands appears at the entrance of the lake, the praia do Amor. Alter do Chão is known as the Caribbean Amazon for its combination of clear waters and sand.

But beyond its famous beaches, what makes Alter do Chão a remarkable destination is the fact that it makes an ideal base for a perfect Amazon experience in the nearby Floresta Nacional do Tapajós. Community-based ecotourism at its best.

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1. HOW TO GET THERE:

Whether you arrive by bus or by boat, the entry point to Alter do Chão is the city of Santarém.

By plane, the nearest airport is Santarém’s. The main Brazilian airlines fly to Santarém from Manaus and Belém (flight time is approximately 1 hour from both cities). From Santarém airport to Alter do Chão, 25 km away, a taxi will set you back approximately R$90.

You can reach Santarém by boat from Manaus or Belém. Travel time is two days. From Belém to Santarém a cabin will cost you R$170. From Manaus to Santarém, R$125.

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2. WHEN TO GO:

Weather-wise, temperatures in Alter do Chão range from the warm to the hot. Rarely does the termometer fall below 20 degrees Celsius and maximum temperatures usually reach the 30′s. It rains heavily from January to July.

The best time to visit Alter do Chão goes from July to September, when the river levels begin to descend and the beaches appear. From January till June there’s heavy rain and the beaches are submerged. From October to December the heat is intense and the river level reaches the year’s low. The magic igapós (flooded forests) dry up.

If you don’t appreciate crowds, we would advice you to avoid Alter do Chão during the Brazilian bank holidays, when the village and the beaches are crowded with tourists coming from Manaus and Belém. The carnival period is particularly critical.

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3. CAREFUL WITH:

• trying to visit Alter do Chão during the Sairé festival during the second week of September; finding acommodation is next to impossible and prices shoot up.
• sting rays. They are found in most beaches, particularly when the river level is low. Accidents are numerous. Before entering the river you need to make sure there isn’t a ray hidden under the sand.
• entering the jungle on your own. It’s a definite no-no.

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4. WE LIKE THE MOST:

• the majestic Tapajós river
• the imposing jungle full of surprises
• the wide range of trips available from Alter do Chão
• the development of true ecoturism in the region
• to spend the day at the Ilha do Amor (literally, “love island”) eating snacks and drinking beer
• to watch the sunset from the new pier and end the night with a piracaia (barbeque fish) at the beach
• the remote and untouched character of Alter do Chão

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5. WE LIKE THE LEAST:

• noise pollution along the river front and the Praça Matriz
• the Ilha do Amor vanishes for several months
• Sunday trippers in Alter do Chão; fortunately, by Monday they are gone
• the unstoppable and destructive advance of men towards the jungle
• the incredible closure and neglect of the Museu do Índio
• the closure of the peixe-boi project, preserving the manatees on the Tapajós river

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6. FAVOURITE PLACES:

The Ilha do Amor, the Ponta de Cururu, the Floresta Encantada, the Canal do Jari, the FLONA, the Tapajós river

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7. PIECE OF ADVICE:

• there are plenty of things to do in Alter do Chão’s surrounding area: a quiet walk along the flooded rainforest and virgin beaches, river-dolphin watching; trekking at the National Parks; getting to know the natives; and even discover two typically American village built by the Ford company during the rubber fever (Fordlandia and Belterra). At an Amazon adventure: trips around Alter do Chão we gave details of the most exciting trips around the Alter do Chão region.
• during the weekend Alter becomes the beach for the inhabitants of Santarem; the place is chock-a-block. During the week it is much quieter
• you can rent a kayak at the Praia do Amor
• there is a supermarket and several shops where you will be able to obtain supplies; however, there are no ATM’s in Alter do Chão
• Alter is an exceptional place if you want to purchase authentic indigenous crafts; some of the shops are real museums
• there’s a great travel agency at the main square, run by Argentinians: Mãe Natureza. They offer good advice and excellent juices and sandwiches
• stalls at the main square sell local food and sweets. A must!

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8. IS IT WORTH VISITING ALTER DO CHÃO JUST FOR ITS BEACHES?

We believe the beaches on the Tapajós river are a fantastic bonus to any visitor to the region. But given how costly it is to reach the region, they could never constitute the only reason for a visit to the area. There are much better beaches all along the Brazilian coastline.

You need to bear in mind the beaches only emerge from July to January. Visit Alter do Chão any other time and you will need a wet suit to see the beaches.

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9. ACCOMMODATION:

There aren’t many options of accommodation in Alter do Chão. Those with a web site are listed at hotels and pousadas in Alter do Chão. We stayed at the pousada Tupaiulândia. It has no website but offers an excellent value for money.

Some of the indigenous communities in the National Forest offer very basic acommodation to its visitors.

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10. HEALTH:

If you are visiting Alter do Chão you are adviced to get your yellow fever shot (more information at 10 facts about yellow fever in Brazil“>10 facts about yellow fever in Brazil). Malaria has not been an issue on the region for some time.

The high acidic level of the Tapajós river guarantees low proliferation of mosquitos. You will find them during your treks in the jungle.

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11. LINKS:

There are no specific pages on Alter do Chão worth mentioning. On Mãe Natureza‘s website, with a version in English, there are detailed descriptions of the activities that can be done in the region. IBAMA’s site devoted to the Floresta Nacional do Tapajós has maps of the region available for download in PDF format.

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12. WEATHER FORECAST:

The weather in Alter do Chão (Santarem) for the next 10 days

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13. CLIMATE:

Average temperatures and rainfall in Alter do Chão (Santarém) at msn.weather.

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13. GOOGLE MAPS:

Alter do Chão in Google Maps.

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14. PHOTOS:

Our Alter do Chão photo album in Flickr.

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15. OTHER BLOG POSTS ON THE AMAZON REGION:
an Amazon adventure: trips around Alter do Chão
“cheia” and “seca” on the Amazon region
tourism on the Amazon region is a foreign affair
destination: Algodoal
destination: Belém
destination: Ilha do Marajó
destination: Manaus
the Meeting of the Waters and the Janauary Ecological Park, near Manaus

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Publishing house Empresa das Artes, with an extense travel-related catalogue, is enabling free online access to the full contents of several of its guides. To read the guides you need to access the tool provided by Book Stand Panrotas.

The available guides are:

Amazonas
Bahia
Goiás
Mato Grosso
Pará
Paraná
Santa Catarina

To open each guide, click on CLIQUE para ler esta publicação. A new window will open where you will be able to read the guide. Unfortunately, the guides are available in Portuguese only, but if you have a basic grasp of the language you will find tons of background information as well as beautiful pictures and maps.

As well as the guides listed here there are a few commercial publications from Panrotas, a trade magazine. Congratulations to the private companies responsible for the initiative.

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RELATED POSTS:
National parks: online brochures

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Next year’s edition of the World Social Forum will take place in the city of Belém, capital of the state of Pará, in the north region of Brazil. This blog has an entry with information on the city (Destination: Belém). I have put together this new entry with information on how to get to Belém.

I can’t give detailed instructions for every single country on the globe, so I’m just focusing on three entry points to Brazil: São Paulo/Río de Janeiro, for those coming from the south of the continent, Europe, North America and Asia; Manaus, for those coming from across the Andes and the United States (Delta has a direct flight from Atlanta to Manaus and Tam from Miami to Manaus); and Fortaleza for those arriving from Europe (TAP has a direct flight from Lisbon to Fortaleza).

From Belém there are only direct international flights to French Guiana (Cayenne) and Suriname (Paramaribo), of no interest whatsoever for most travellers. To find out more about direct flights from your country to Brazil have a look at the list we prepared at D Airfare: Direct flights to Brazil.

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1. FROM SÃO PAULO/RIO DE JANEIRO

1.1 BY PLANE
Among all the main Brazilian airlines, only Gol and Tam have flights to Belém both from São Paulo and Rio. Check their sites for more info.

1.2 BY BUS
Departing both from São Paulo and Rio de Janeiro, bus companies Itapemirim and Transbrasiliana have buses to Belém. The price of a single ticket is R$370 from São Paulo. The trip lasts 51 horas. We advice you to compare the cost of flying with the cost of a 2-day trip (you will have to have breakfast, lunch and dinner during that time).

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2. FROM MANAUS

2.2 BY PLANE
Both Gol and Tam have direct flights from Manaus to Belém.

2.3 BY BOAT
The boat departs from the port of Manaus and it takes three days to reach Belém. Prices start from R$250 sleeping on a hammock on what could be described as third-class accommodation. If you want a cabin, expect to fork out a minimum of an additional R$200. There are several boats doing that route during the week (there are no daily sailings).

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3. FROM FORTALEZA

3.2 BY PLANE
Both Gol and Tam have direct flights from Fortaleza to Belém.

3.3 BY BUS
Two companies travel from Fortaleza to Belém: la Itapemirim and Expresso Guanabara. The price of a single ticket is R$195. The trip takes 24 horas. During the last couple of years buses have been robbed at gunpoint on the stretch between São Luís and Belém. We advice you to avoid night travel at all costs.

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We have an entry dedicated to Belém here on the blog: Destination: Belém.

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[from our special guest Daniel]

Algodoal is an island in the state of Pará, north of Brazil. Up until three years ago there was no electricity on the island. When it arrived, it was decided there wouldn’t be street lighting to preserve the rustic character of the villages. There are no motor vehicles on the island, nor there is asphalt on the roads. One of its main attractions is the Princesa beach, a desert island for most of its 14 km of length, chosen by Time magazine as one of the most beautiful beaches of Brazil.

WE LIKE THE MOST: to spend the day resting at the beach or at the lago da Princesa. Walking along the village day or night and not coming across a single motor vehicle. The sunset from any bar at the Caixa D’água beach.

WE LIKE THE LEAST: its remoteness: it’s a six-hour trip from Belém. Basic services are hard to find. Lack of environmental conscience – specially considering the island is a Environmental Protection Area.

HOW TO GET THERE: there are several daily buses from Belém to Marudá harbour. It takes them four hours to cover the 163 km separating both places. Once in Marudá you have to take a traditional popopó boat, that reaches the island in 40 minutes. It costs R$5. Alternatively, there is another boat leaving every day from the Maracaná harbour that reaches Algodoal in 3 hours.

CAREFUL WITH: the sun, sunblock is a must. The crossing to the island can be quite rough at times.

FAVOURITE PLACES: Lago da Princesa, Playa da Princesa.

PIECE OF ADVICE:

• hire someone to help you carry your luggage once you arrive in Algodoal. Most of the pousadas are quite far away from the arrival point.
• the island is packed during January, July and the bank holidays; an ideal time if you are looking for parties & fun. The rest of the year you will find absolute peace and quiet.
• there are not ATM’s on the island. There are a few shops where you can do your basic shopping.
• do spend the weekend at the island. The carimbó (traditional music from Pará) party takes place on Saturdays at the Bar do Carimbó.
• on the way to the Lago da Princesa take the path that goes through the interior: the first stretch is done on a canoe through the mangrove swamp, and then it’s a 40 minute walk through several different ecosystems. On the way back, return walking along the beach or on a cart.
• if you get sea-sick when you travel by boat, take the boat that leaves from Maracanâ; although the trip takes longer the sailing is less rough.
• careful with the areas covered in mud. It looks harmless but it’s really sticky.

View Larger Map

LINKS: Algodoal.com

WEATHER FORECAST: The weather in Algodoal (Marudá) for the next 10 days

[Don’t forget to check out the list of other destinations already covered in this blog, here]

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As well as the destination card on Belém, (Destination: Belém), our contributor Daniel has prepared an anotated map with the main points of interest on the capital of Pará.

View larger map

As usual, you can check the map out here or open it on full screen mode at GoogleMaps.

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[from our special guest Daniel]

Belém do Pará is the capital of the state of Pará, in the north of Brazil, near the mouth of the mighty Amazon. It is known as the “metropolis of the Amazon” and it has accumulated a rich history since its foundation 400 years ago. During the rubber fever it became the first Latin American city to have electricity, and its splendour was such that it was known as the “Paris of the tropics”. This rich historical heritage, combined with the native Indian and African influences, have resulted in a very interesting city surrounded by lush jungle.

WE LIKE THE MOST: Its food. The sunset seen over the river. The parts of the city that are being restored. The recovery of the riverfront.

WE LIKE THE LEAST: Dirt and a certain state of neglect that resemble dangerously New Delhi. The Mangal das Garças, and its faded scarlet ibis and its fridge for butterflies. The lack of interest on tourism shown by the authorities. The chaotic traffic.

HOW TO GET THERE: We do not advice driving to Belém. It is connected by air to plenty of other Brazilian cities. The Amazon river can be used too, from Manaus or Santarém.

CAREFUL WITH: The chuva da tarde (afternoon rain); every day at three o’clock there is a heavy and brief dowpour. Do stay indoors while it lasts. As in any other major Brazilian city, pay special attention to your personal safety. In the area around the Ver-O-Peso market there are pickpockets operating.

FAVOURITE PLACES: The Bosque Rodrigues Alves and the Jardim Zoobotánico Emilio Goeldi. Complexo Feliz Lusitania. Ver-O-Peso Market. Estação das Docas. The Praça da República on a Sunday morning. Icoarací.

PIECE OF ADVICE:

• the restaurants in the Ver-O-Peso market are an unforgettable and really cheap experience.
• açai is the staple diet of Belém. Although it has become fashionable in the rest of the country, what you find in other regions of Brazil is a substitute. In Belém açai is eaten pure, usually really thick, with no other accompaniment than manioc flour. If you find it too bitter you can add sugar to it.
• the worst time of the year to visit Belém goes from December to May, when it can rain non-stop all day long.
• even though most of the Historic Centre is in a state of neglect, it is worth walking from rua Siqueira Mendes to Praça do Carmo, always paying attention to your own safety.
• your gastronomic taste of Belém should include the jambú pizza from the Café Imaginario, any ice-cream from the Cairú ice-cream parlours and an Amazon fish at the Remanso do Peixe.
• the best place to buy marajoara ceramics is Icoarací. If you are looking for something more sophisticated, a good place in terms of creativity and variety is the Polo Joalheiro Sâo José Liberto.
• Icoarací also has a riverfront with lots of bars. It’s a good and traditional alternative to the interesting Estação das Docas in Belém itself.
• Cotijuba and Mosqueiro are islands that can be easily reached from Belém and that will allow you a close contact with the Amazon jungle. You will also be able to enjoy a river beach with waves!

LINKS: Belém City Council, Paratur, Circuito Landi.

WEATHER FORECAST: The weather in Belém for the next 10 days

[Don’t forget to check out the list of other destinations already covered in this blog, here]

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[from our special guest Daniel]

The island of Marajó, in the state of Pará, north of Brazil, is the largest island to be completely surrounded by freshwater in the world. It is larger than Switzerland. The main touristic points of the island are found near the towns of Salvaterra and Soure, on the east of the island, separated by the river Paracauari. The symbol of Marajó are its buffalos, a species that adapted perfectly to the large flooded plains of the island. They are tame and you will find huge herds of them. The local police force mount on them!

WE LIKE THE MOST: the wide variety of landscapes on a lush environment. Peace, quiet and safety. Buffalo cheese and meet. The really sweet pineapples of Salvaterra.

WE LIKE THE LEAST: the distance and the terrible communication system, with truly uncomfortable boats. The non-existent tourist infrastructure. The erosion that is finishing Salvaterra up while the powers-that-be do nothing to prevent it.

HOW TO GET THERE: by sea there are daily boats leaving from Belém going to Camará harbour (ticket around R$ 14). If you want to take a car, the ferry leaves from Icoarací, each cars costs approximately R$70 and the crossing takes between three and four hours. From Camará harbour to Salvaterra there is a bus (R$2). The ferry crossing to Soure is free for pedestrians and costs around R$6 per car. There is a new boat that goes directly to Soure, takes between four and five hours.

CAREFUL WITH: the rocking of the boat; those prone to sea-sickness will have a really rough time. Very strong winds blowing at the beaches – the locals love it as it mitigates the heat. Distances are huge, you need some means of transportation to get you to places.

FAVOURITE PLACES: praia do Pesqueiro in Soure; Fazenda Bom Jesús, in Soure; Joanes, in Salvaterra.

PIECE OF ADVICE:

• do visit a fazenda, some of them offer accommodation and trips.
• if you take the ferry from Icoarací, buy a first-class ticket, you will be able to stay on the deck and enjoy the crossing.
• Joanes, a tiny village near Salvaterra, is a must: ruins of a Jesuit Mission from the XVII century, cliffs, a fishing village and a very nice beach.
• the island is perfect for those riding a bicycle. It’s plain and there is hardly any traffic. Some pousadas offer bicycles to their guests.
• another way of getting in touch with the natural environment is to navigate on canoes through the numerous igarapés (streams).
• the best time of the year to visit the island goes from June to December, when the rain diminishes and the level of the Amazon is lower, uncovering the beaches and making it possible to travel around the island.

View Larger Map

ACCOMMODATION: list of hotels and pousadas at Ilha do Marajó

LINKS: Secretaría de Turismo de Pará

WEATHER FORECAST: The weather in Salvaterra for the next 10 days

[Don’t forget to check out the list of other destinations already covered in this blog, here]

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We have a new, expanded and updated entry on Alter do Chão: destination: Alter do Chão and the river Tapajós.

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Alter do Chão is a small town in the state of Pará, council of Santarém. It is located at the entrance of a lake formed on the right bank of the Tapajós river – one of the biggest tributaries of the Amazon and known for its greenish-blue waters. When the level of the Amazon river is low, from July to January, a beach of fine and clear sands appears at the entrance of the lake, the praia do Amor. Alter do Chão is known as the Caribbean Amazon for its combination of clear water and sand.

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1. WE LIKE THE MOST:

To spend the day at the Ilha do Amor (literally, “love island”) eating snacks and drinking beer; to watch the sunset from the new pier and end the night with a piracaia (barbeque fish) at the beach

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2. WE LIKE THE LEAST:

Noise pollution along the river front and the Praça Matriz; the Ilha do Amor vanishes for several month; mass tourism will eventually end up destroying the place.

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3. HOW TO GET THERE:

You can only reach Santarém by plane or by boat (from Manaos or Belem). From Santarém to Alter there’s a forty-minute drive by bus (hourly service, from 6:00 a 18:00, around R$2) or by taxi (R$50 aprox.)

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4. CAREFUL WITH:

Going there out of season, with the Ilha gone Alter do Chão looses part of its charm; trying to go attend the festa do Sairé at the beginning of September without booking your accomodation first: prices shoot up and hotels are booked months in advance.

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5. FAVOURITE PLACES:

Ilha do Amor, Ponta de Cururu.

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6. PIECE OF ADVICE:

• there are plenty of things to do in Alter do Chão’s surrounding area: a quiet walk along the flooded rainforest and virgin beaches, river-dolphin watching; trekking at the National Parks; getting to know the natives; and even discover a typically American village built by the Ford company during the rubber fever
• during the weekend Alter becomes the beach for the inhabitants of Santarem; the place is chock-a-block. During the week it is much quieter
• there is a supermarket and several shops where you will be able to obtain supplies; however, there are no ATM’s in Alter
• Alter is an exceptional place if you want to purchase authentic indigenous crafts; some of the shops are real museums
• don’t go from the airport to Santarem by taxi only to take the bus to Alter. The airport is half-way between Santarem and Alter
• there’s a great travel agency at the main square, run by Argentinians: Mãe Natureza. They offer good advice and excellent juices and sandwiches.

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7. LINKS:

Santarem City Council

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8. ACCOMMODATION:

Full listing of hotels and pousadas in Alter do Chão.

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9. WEATHER FORECAST:

The weather in Alter do Chão (Santarem) for the next 10 days

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10. GOOGLE MAPS:

Alter do Chão

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11. PHOTOS:

Alter do Chão

Our thanks to Daniel for this text.

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RELATED POSTS:
destination: Algodoal
destination: Belém

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